There's What in My Face Cream?

There's What in my face cream?  That's what I would like to know.  Today there seems to be an abundance of exotic ingredients that don't make alot of sense to me. 

I am not referring to modern break throughs such as peptides (you can actually feel those working) but it would be nice to understand the difference between pentapeptides and hexapeptides and other peptides?   Other categories of ingredients such as anti-oxidants are critical for skin health but is a goji berry really better than a blue berry?  If so who says and why?  There is also Retin A, Retinal, Retinol, Retinolic acid, Retinaldhydes and vitamin A derived from natural products.  So what's the difference? A good place to start looking for answers is http://www.skinactives.com/.  Not only can you find out the answers to these questions but you can purchase these actives as well.  

But what I find so alarming are some of the more unique ingredients found in todays creams and body lotions.  I  wonder what is the exact purpose and how are they really working.   Check out http://www.beautybrains.com/ for a detailed explaination of how and why snail oil is supposed to work.  Then there are those who swear by Emu oil and animal growth factors.  I'll take essential oils any day.  They are fresh, vegtarian and they smell great and a little goes a long way. 

I think many manufacturers of skincare products and skin professionals who are out to make a name for themselves are looking for a hook - a way to depart from the accepted practice of  breaking down the skin by exfoliating to bring out brighter, new skin. I for one am not convinced that galvanic and electrical treatments to the face are anymore effective than a good 30% peel.  I am open to changing my mind so feel free to post your comments.